Photography Field Trips - Controlling the Camera
http://edu-observatory.org/olli/DP3/Week2.pdf   or   index.html



  Exposure Compensation (for automated exposure modes)
    http://www.digicamhelp.com/camera-features/advanced-settings/ec/ 
    http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/User-Guide/995/EXPOSURE/EV-compensation.html
    http://www.shortcourses.com/use/using3-4.html

    
    Since a typical scene averages out to be about 18 percent gray,
    that's what the auto exposure system in camera tries to
    do--expose every image as if it averaged out to be 18 percent
    gray. That's a problem for images we want to be lighter (snow)
    or darker (black cats). Cameras allow the user to conveniently
    adjust the exposure to over or under expose in increments of
    1/3 stop up to plus or minus who stops.

    -2 -1  0 +1 +2   Over exposing by +1 stop might be just right
     |..|..|..|..|   photographing a bright scene as the one above.
              ^

    The snow scene above is typical of scenes that are lighter than
    18 percent gray. Most of the important tones in the scene are
    at the lighter end of the gray scale. The overall "average"
    tone would be about one stop brighter than middle gray. For a
    good picture you have to increase the exposure by one stop (+1)
    to lighten it. If you didn't do this, the snow in the scene
    would appear too gray (bottom).


  Using the Focus/Exposure Lock
    http://www.digicamhelp.com/basic-techniques/fe-lock/ 
    http://www.digicamhelp.com/taking-photos/basic-techniques/autofocus-problems-and-solutions/
    http://www.digicamhelp.com/camera-features/shooting-modes/face-detection/
    http://www.digicamhelp.com/camera-features/camera-modes/focus-modes/

    Many digital cameras are set to default to focus continually
    or have another focus mode that causes the camera to
    automatically select the main area that will be focused in a
    scene. These modes can be unreliable, resulting in poorly
    focused, soft looking images.

    For optimal results for the vast majority of scenes, switch
    to a single or center area focus mode and lock focus where
    you want it. Also make sure to set the diopter setting so 
    that lines, boxes and information in the viewfinder is sharp.

    When pressing the shutter button half way, the camera comes
    alive--determining where to focus and determining what
    combinations shutter speed, aperture and sometimes ISO
    setting to give a proper exposure.

    Many times you want to focus on a subject that not in the
    center of the image.

           

    When the subject you want to expose (or focus) correctly is
    off-center, you can lock exposure (and focus) by pressing the
    shutter button halfway down and then, without releasing the
    shutter button, recompose the image. 


  How to Use the iPhone Camera
    http://ipod.about.com/od/introductiontotheiphone/qt/Using-The-Iphone-Camera.htm
    http://osxdaily.com/2014/05/21/iphone-camera-tips-better-photos/

  HDR Shooting with dSLR Camera - Requirements
    Mount Camera on a Tripod
    Set Camera to Exposure Bracketing
    Shutter Release or Timed Shutter Release
    Software such as Photomatrix Pro http://www.hdrsoft.com

  Time Lapse Photography vs Video
    http://digital-photography-school.com/timelapse-photography-tutorial-an-overview-of-shooting-processing-and-rending-timelapse-movies
    http://watch.opb.org/video/2288686259/

    Award-winning photographer Ben Canales takes us on a
    photo-safari to Olympic National Park to track down the
    swirling stars and boiling clouds that populate his amazing
    time-lapse videos.


    
    

 
    sam.wormley@gmail.com